This is one of my father favorite bongzai plant, i do not know the name, but it looks so elegant.

Orchird Garden

Orchird Blooming at the garden, Dont you think it is pleasant view !

Helpful Hints For Beginner Bonsai Gardening

Growing bonsais is an art form that has been around for hundreds of years. It originated in Asia and has made its way around the world. These diminutive trees may seem like they just grow that way naturally, but the fact is that it takes a great deal of time and effort to grow and look after them. Beginners in the art of cultivating bonsai will have to learn a lot before they can produce a thriving tree. Here are a few suggestions for beginner bonsai gardening.

Making a suitable choice is the first thing that you will want to consider before you head out to purchase your first bonsai. Some trees are less demanding to cultivate than others. Your best bet is to choose one that is hardy and entails the smallest amount of maintenance.

Japanese Snowdrop is frequently recommended for the beginner. It’s robust and grows exceedingly well in full sun outdoors. Its maintenance is relatively simple if you water it properly and make certain that its root system doesn’t ever become completely dry. This species requires yearly pruning in addition to careful observation of its roots.

The Japanese Pagoda tree is another species that’s simple to cultivate for novices. It also flowers delightfully when in season. It doesn’t like exceedingly hot or dry conditions. It does best with full sun and occasional shade. The ball root system should not be allowed to dry up entirely.

You must bear in mind that not all species of bonsais have similar requirements for sunlight and water. Make certain you understand the requirements of your particular plant if you want to be successful in your efforts. Some trees need to be repotted regularly, no less than every one to three years. This helps to preserve the roots and keep them free from pests and other threats to their root system. Make certain that you choose soil that is specially formulated for bonsais, and likewise use a proper pot.

Training your bonsai tree means that the twigs and branches need to be wired and kept in place with special wiring produced for this purpose. This procedure takes a lot of time, effort and persistence, however you will be rewarded in the end with a striking bonsai tree. However, novices should not undertake any shaping before they are knowledgeable about and at ease with tending to their tree.

Passionate on bonzai

Bonsai Wiring Basics

Wrapping aluminum or copper wires around the trunk or branches of bonsai trees in order to give them the intended profile is known as wiring. In order to produce basic bonsai styles, you will need to wrap the trunk and branches with the correct thickness and length of wire. The formal upright style involves no wrapping, but the cascade shape involves a few months of careful wiring.

You should be very careful when you’re applying wire to the trunk or branches of a bonsai tree due to the stress it causes. Doing it the wrong way can mean, if worse comes to worst, a dead tree, or more often a cracked branch. Another mistake is to wrap in too constricting a fashion or in the wrong season. This can cause lasting damage to the tree, or might even kill it outright.

Prior to actually wiring your bonsai, use a stick or pole to practice. This will help you in getting a feel for the wire and will help you develop the suppleness necessary to wrap a branch while holding it. When you feel like you’ve gotten the entire process mastered through your practice sessions, and you aren’t moving anything that you shouldn’t be, then you can try the same thing with the bonsai tree.

Step one is picking the most appropriate wire for the project. Copper and aluminum are the two favorite choices, although copper is thought to be more attractive throughout the extended training period. When wrapping a bonsai, use annealed copper only, as steel wire is toxic to a few species. Aluminum is a lot more flexible, so it’s easier to use for someone who is new at this kind of project. Although copper is stiffer, it might scar the tree if it is not applied properly. Using wire that’s one third as thick as the branch it’s going to wrap is a basic rule with which to begin.

Well placed little stresses along the tree trunk or branch are what allows the wire to change the shape of the tree. So, in order for the tree to change its shape and not the wire, the wire needs to be stronger than the branch or trunk.

Try wrapping branches from comparable trees to improve your skill and dexterity. Test different thicknesses of wire on branches of a similar species and size before using it on the bonsai. A variety of widths will be needed in order to wire the entire tree so try working with all of them in advance.

To master the delicate skill of bonsai wiring, patience is required. Do not be discouraged, though, because if you’re prepared to take the time you can learn how to do this, and you’ll be so happy with the results.

Easy Ways to Create a Beautiful Bonsai Garden

Even if you already own one bonsai tree, you might want to add a few more to create a bonsai garden in a few easy steps. This is the way to quickly start a garden created especially with your plants and personal style in mind.

One of the most visually appealing bonsai garden types is the rock garden. The plants are secured underneath beautiful rocks, and the amount of water and care you give your trees will determine how long the garden will last. For this type of setting you should choose plants that have strong roots and small leaves. To start off a rock bonsai garden, many folks pick a Ficus or an Oriental Bittersweet plant, which are available at many plant stores.

After choosing your desired botanical specimen, begin incorporating rocks into the dirt. The best place to look for rocks would be construction sites, or you can purchase a bag from the hardware store. The rocks you choose should be hard and strong, to ensure your tree gets the proper shape. You will also need to choose rocks that are somewhat damaged because you will want to put dirt and water in between the ridges. With this method you are giving the impression that the tree has grown right out of the rock, an interesting method of growth for the average garden or living space.

You may choose to start a bonsai garden with container plants you already own. Rock fountains or other decorative items like pillars will help show off the bonsai garden. Depending on the amount of space you have, you may also opt to create a man-made pond in the middle of your garden.

It is also ideal to have several types of trees in the garden. You can choose a tiny pine tree to be a part of the decorations, along with a cherry tree that has blossomed and grown cherries. When decorating, utilize the fact that different bonsai trees can be paired together, even if they don’t normally coexist in the same environments.

How to Grow a Bonsai Tree That Will Flourish

Once you purchase a bonsai tree, or the seeds to plant it, you’ll definitely want all the information you can get when it comes to growing bonsai. You’ll need to know how often to water your plant, which fertilizer is best, and how to prune your plant regularly in order to make sure your tree grows to be extremely healthy. Here are some tips that will help you to get started.

If you are growing your bonsai tree indoors, you’ll need to make sure that it is getting enough sunlight, since dark areas in your home could shorten the life of your plant. Keep your plant near the window so that it can get direct sunlight, and make sure that you keep your house at about 60 degrees Fahrenheit in the daytime, since your tree will need to be in a warm climate. Humidity is also ideal, since this type of air is part of the environment that these plants naturally flourish in.

In order for a bonsai tree to maintain its appearance, you’ll have to give it regular trimmings and spray the leaves to maintain the color. However, be careful not to spray the leaves in spring and summer months since the leaves can be damaged from the humidity. As well, you need to carefully monitor the water levels of your plant. Both under watering and over watering can be harmful to your delicate tree.

In order to maintain the look and health of the tree when you’re growing bonsai, you’ll need to make sure that the tree is groomed or clipped, as well as fed the best nutrients. You can use a potent multivitamin to accomplish this; every few weeks you can place two pills in the soil so that the nutrients can dissolve into the fertilizer. Each season, you will have to inspect the roots of the tree and trim them if necessary.

It’s also very important to re-pot your tree every couple of years. The ideal season for re-potting is spring, since the weather will be fairly neutral (not too hot, not too cold) and it is more likely that your plant will develop faster in the new soil. This is also a good time to prune the roots, but be sure not to cut too much–only about one third from the tip of the root should be sufficient. If you want your plant to grow in the same shape or at the same pace, you should re-pot in a pot with a similar shape.

Helpful Hints For Bonsai Care

Lots of people wonder what all the fuss is about when it comes to growing a bonsai plant. They simply don’t understand exactly why it necessitates such a lot of watchful attention. However, the fact is, bonsai care is a skill requiring dedication and commitment. These tiny trees need loads of care and will soon die if they don’t receive it.

You need to keep in mind that you are dealing with a plant that is alive and growing, and that has to be painstakingly tended. Your tree requires environmental factors which are just right so it can grow healthily. Room temperature and lighting will have to be carefully watched, plus it’s essential that you give it the precise quantities of fertilizer and water. Here’s a look at several guidelines which will get you started on the road to a beautiful, flourishing bonsai tree.

1. Watering will have to be done cautiously so as to provide the roots precisely the quantity of moisture they need. The amount will depend on the variety you’re raising. You should also check to see that that your bonsai pot has good drainage, since water accumulating at the roots can destroy your plant.

2. Make sure that your indoor bonsai gets a suitable amount of light. Once again, this will differ by species. You will want to protect it from the direct sun when it’s at its brightest, typically between 11 am and 2 pm.

3. For a thriving tree, make certain it gets the vitamins and minerals it requires. Look for a fertilizer product that has been especially intended for indoor bonsai trees. It needs to be fed over the active growing stage only, not when it’s resting.

4. In order for your plant to remain healthy, you will need to transplant it to a new pot from time to time. Check the recommendations for the species you have to make sure you know how often to transplant it.

5. Tropical or subtropical bonsai plants have special requirements. Throughout the winter, you’ll need to keep them protected from freezing air. Make sure they’re located far away from exterior windows and doors that let in drafts.

6. Avoid the urge to over tend your bonsai tree when it’s becoming used to its new home. Otherwise stated, don’t take out the pruning shears and shaping wire too soon. During the first year, your focus must be on preventing the plant from dying and helping it to grow. All you need to do is make sure it receives enough fertilizer, water and light. Once you are able to handle its daily care, then you can start to teach yourself how to prune and shape it.

These plants are delicate and it’s not hard to kill them. But once you develop your bonsai care abilities, you will be able to enjoy your magnificent plant with satisfaction.

识别雀舌罗汉松盆景要四看

罗汉松，系罗汉松科罗汉松属。它四季常绿，苍劲优雅，特别是雀舌罗汉松，更受人喜爱，它在我国盆栽艺术中占有不平常的地位。

　　雀舌罗汉松是罗汉松中的一个变种，与大叶罗汉松或中叶罗汉松的主要区别是：大叶罗汉松为大乔木，中叶罗汉松为亚乔木，雀舌罗汉松是一种小灌木。目前花木市场上有人常用中叶罗汉松的小苗，冒充雀舌罗汉松出售。雀舌罗汉松在苗期较难区分真伪，一般要“四看”：

　　一看叶。雀舌罗汉松叶小，尖端圆，状如麻雀舌头；大叶和中叶罗汉松的叶端一般比较尖，雀舌罗汉松叶比前两种厚实，特别是中脉明显突出。

　　二看茎。大叶和中叶罗汉松色绿，雀舌罗汉松色深，呈深绿色。

　　三看节。雀舌罗汉松春秋各抽梢一次，春秋梢各一节，节密，顿节明显，两梢长度相加一年最多只有半寸，大叶和中叶罗汉松节间长，长势快，顿节没有雀舌罗汉松明显。

　　四看梢。雀舌罗汉松春梢叶片密生状如菊花心，这是大叶和中叶罗汉松所没有的，但秋梢芽散开，不起菊花心，因此比较难鉴别。

野生树桩的正确采挖

盆景愈古价值愈高。野桩挖取，虽然因其材料难得而不能作为批量生产的主要材料来源，但是可以作为一种辅助手段，制作特色盆景。它的特点是成型迅速，且易体现盆景古雅的神韵，但破坏野生植物资源。因此，挖取之前一定要先调查，避免挖取的盲目性和浪费。
　　1、挖取野生树桩的方法
　　适合制作盆景的老树桩，一般生长在条件较差的荒山崖壁划石缝中。秋末冬初或早春，将选好的树桩先锯掉地上部分的粗枝，仅留基部一段，并剪去无用的枝条，然后清理树桩四周，以便挖掘。挖掘时，先在一面深挖。如果有主根，要先切断主根，然后再切侧根。否则主根不易切断，会伤害侧根和须根。同时，要注意使伤口尽量小而光滑。挖掘时尽量多带土球，栽植成活率高。对于直根系树种或珍稀树种，为了保证成活率，往往不能一次挖取。可以第一年先在相对的两个侧面断其侧根，并在下面挖穴，填入肥沃的壤土，浇透水养根。第二年再往另一个相对侧面用同样的方法挖。第三年，当树桩的侧根均生出新根后再带土球挖出。
　　对挖好的树桩，可先用草绳打好包装，然后再运输。如果说树桩不带土球，则要先将根部蘸上泥浆，再用浸过水的稻草和塑料膜包上，捆好后再运输。野桩运到目的地后，要先在阴凉避风处打开包装，进一步整枝修剪后再上盆。
　　2、极力提高野生树桩成活率
　　由于野生树桩在自然界中生长环境较恶劣，特别是长在悬崖、石缝中的树桩，一般根系较长，须根较少，挖后不易成活。要提高野桩的成活率，可从以下几方面着手：
　　（1） 适时采挖 冬末春初，在树液开始流动，但未发芽时采掘树桩。这时挖掘的树桩移栽后成活率高。有些树桩也可以在梅雨季节、微雨或阴天时采挖上盆。
　　（2） 保护根系 挖掘时要先断主根，再断侧根。截口要尽量小而光滑。如果带土坨，应在挖掘后，适当修剪根系后，立即用稀泥敷在根部，尤其要敷好发须根。为了不使稀泥脱落，可用青草裹住根系。上盆前，拆去青草，于根部再裹一层青苔保水，植入盆中浇一次透水，放于半阴处养护。
　　（3）减少蒸腾 挖掘之前，应按不同植株的种类和大小，仔细观察树形，剪去多余的枝叶，并在截口涂上或包上塑料薄膜。采挖回来之后，在上盆之前再对根系和枝叶进行一次修剪，并用利刀削平切口，使树皮与木质部之间无裂缝。然后用溶化的石蜡涂于切口处，也可以用石蜡来回磨擦伤口，使切口均匀上蜡，注意擦时切不可将树皮与木质部碰裂。然后上盆，进入正常养护。切口涂蜡既可以减少植株的水分蒸腾，又可以保护伤口，防止因伤口流液而引起腐烂感染。
　　（4）罩膜法 新桩上盆后，用塑料膜罩住树桩，以减少水分蒸发。但要注意，浇水不要过多，否则易引起产烂根，施肥不要过早，一定要等树桩成活后再上肥。当新桩枝条长到5厘米长以上时，可以选择阴天将塑料袋取下，让树桩适应弱光下的外部环境，增强抵抗能力。
　　挖取天然的野桩，可以按照其天然造型构思，做出更有野味和自然韵味的桩景。

黄山松

《盆景技艺口诀》

枝无寸直，一寸三弯。
疏处可走马，密处不透风。
一枝见波折，二枝分长短，三枝讲聚散，多枝有露有藏。
直长位宜藏不宜露，直曲位宜露不宜藏。
梅花盆景的宁折勿弯、宁斜勿直。
盆景是无言的诗、立体的画、活的雕塑。
景成之日，功在十年！
不怕剪错枝，就怕立错位。
蓄技截干。丈山，尺树，寸马，分人。远山无树，近大远小。
造物成形妙画工，地形咫尺远连空。
蛟龙出没三万顷，云雨纵横十二峰。
清座使人无俗气，闲来当署起清风。
诸山落水萧萧夜，醉梦江湖一叶中
去强留弱；去粗留细。
审要准，裁要狠．
如皋盆景，左顾右盼两弯半，云头雨脚美人腰。
不干不浇，浇则必透。
见干见湿；薄肥勤施；
景树无根似插木亭子观尖，盆景观脚。
春抹异位芽，
夏剪强弱枝；
秋天应追肥，
冬剪所以枝。
_______杂木盆景管理歌。
病虫宜早防。
冬天正是时。
及时清落叶。
消灭越冬卵。
喷射"石硫剂；
春来树无恙。

剪枝五去五留法；
去远留近、去大留小。去直留曲，去中留边，去高留低。

杂木盆景日常管理歌:
春日浇水宜早上，
加强光照防徒长。
增施"磷钾"有机肥；
枝壮叶厚节径短。
夏日最好避西晒。
防止叶片早枯焦。
气温下降及时肥。
酷暑盆景分外妖。
秋季西风落叶黄，
扣水减肥理应当，
植物体内转机制；
勤查调整树可安。
冬季防寒是主要。
高处放置是首要。
室内越冬见光照；
充分休眠盆景好。

盆景花卉施肥有一套要领；
“四多”黃瘦多施，发芽前多施，孕蕾期多施，花后多施。
“四少”肥壮少施，发芽少施，开花少施，雨季少施；
“四不”徒长不施，新栽不施，盛暑不施，休眠不施。

岭南盆景:
脱衣换锦，一展三变，春芽秋叶，夏茂冬藏
下长上短，里长外短。
触目横斜千万朵，赏心只有两三枝。

盆树四条件：根露、干粗、枝密、叶细
盆树四大家：黄杨、金雀、迎春、绒针柏。
盆树七贤：黄山松、缨络柏、榆、枫、冬青、银杏、雀梅。
盆树十八学士：梅、桃、虎刺、吉庆（冬珊瑚）、枸杞、杜鹃、翠柏、木瓜、腊梅、南天竹、山茶、罗汉松、西府海棠、凤尾竹、紫薇、石榴、六月雪、栀子花。

岭南盆景“蓄枝截干法”
苏派盆景“六台三托一顶”的整形法
扬州盆景“一寸三弯云片式”造型法
海派盆景“剪扎并施法”
浙江的“”高干式"浙派
安徽的“扭旋式”徽派
山东的“屏风式”
四川的“蚓曲式”川派
福建的“气根式”
岭南盆景枝托上翘如鹿角，下垂如鸡爪；冗繁削尽留清瘦、一枝一叶总关情。
树干蛇行直立，左右垂臂横出；树形苍劲浑厚，树冠秀茂稠密。
扬派盆景桩必古老，片必平整，技法采用“寸结寸弯鸡爪翅”，主枝像鸡翅，分枝像鸡爪。
制作要点：一提根、二顿节、三拿弯、四做片、五收顶。
苏派盆景技法：粗扎细剪，以剪为主，以扎为辅。
海派盆景技法扎剪并重，细扎细剪。
野桩采挖：落叶树落叶后发芽前，此时树正处休眠；常绿树可常年，最好是在春、雨季，关键在于须根全。

中国绘画传统技法在盆景技艺中的运用
意在笔先。
千山皆入画，只取一峰青。
片山有致，寸石生情。
－峰则太华千寻，－勺则江湖万里。
室雅何须大，花香不在多。
黄金分割法。
合拢则通体联络，拆开则逐物有姿。
不等边三角形构图原理。

中国绘画传统技法在盆景技艺中的运用
只画魚儿不画水，此中亦自有波涛。
－炬之光，通体皆明。
客随主行。陪衬烘托。
实则虚之，虚则实之。
形断意连，迹断势连。
神龙见首不见尾。
山欲高，尽出则不高。烟霞锁其腰，则高矣。
远眺视其势，近观视其质。
近观有露，露则其质；远眺有藏，藏则意现。
景越藏，境界趆大。
巧拙互用，粗细兼施。

中国绘画传统技法在盆景技艺中的运用
山之体，石为骨，树木为衣，草为毛发，水为血脉，寺观林落桥梁为装饰。
石本顽，树活则灵。
树不可繁，要见山之秀丽。
丈山尺树寸马豆人

盆景根、干、枝修剪十六忌
根忌：回根、片根、逆根。
干忌：Ｓ干、逆干、夺主干。
枝忌：片枝、平行枝、内侧枝、切干枝、交叉枝、超长枝、车轮枝、对生枝、蛙腿枝、逆枝。
近宜细腻，远宜概括；
下宜清晰，上宜模糊；
近树宜大，远树宜小
丈山尺树，寸马豆人。
远人无目，远树无枝，远山无石，隐隐如眉。
鸟鸣山更幽，蝉嗓林愈静。
以闹求静，动静相衬，均衡相宜。
宾主分明，参差有致，顾盼有情。
繁中求简。
千里之山岂能尽奇，万里之水不能尽秀
虚实相生。
实中有虚、虚中有实。
密中有疏、疏中有密疏密有致。
露者为实，藏者为虚，
有藏有露，则虚实相生。
平淡奇特，刚柔互济。
漏、透、瘦、皱。
一弯二拐三出四回五镇顶。
宁空勿实，超过5/10，多显臃肿迫塞，少干3/10，则又松散单调。这个比例适用盆景的正视图、侧视图和俯视图。
盆景的布局最忌四平尺稳。
轻重不分、暄宾夺主
三远法，
古人云：“山有三远：
自山下而仰山巅谓之高远，
自山前而窥山后谓之深远，
自近山而望远山谓之平远。
高远之势突兀，深远之意重迭，平远之意冲融而缥缥渺渺”。
盆景造型十二大原则。
意在笔先。
师法造化。
因势造型。
动静结合。
繁简并用。
以小观大。
阴阳向背。
主次分明。
比例协调。
顾盼呼应。
变化统一。
形神兼备。
妙用题名，画龙点睛。
“语直无味，意浅无趣”。

盆景构景十种风格
——古：多为树桩盆景。取材松、柏、榆等，以松为主，有“无松不古”之说，塑造古老苍劲的形象。
——雅：取材以兰为主，“无兰不雅”形成幽雅，素朴的气氛。
——清：取材竹子的常青植物，以竹为主，“无竹不清”，形成清秀明快的景观。
——俏：多为观花盆景，以梅为主，“无梅不俏”，形成奇丽多彩的美姿。
——幽：多为山林盆景，用茂密的植物和山石等，构成如“青城天下幽”的丛林峡谷。
——雄：多为山石盆景，取材以石为主，配以树木和建筑，用相对高大的石料构成泰山雄姿般的景观
——险：也是山石盆景，但要造成悬崖陡壁之势。
——奇：以奇形石为主的山石盆景，构成如“黄山天下奇”般的景观。
——旷：多为水石盆景，构成海滨风光，令人心旷神怡。
——秀：也是山水盆景，用材有山、水、花木等构成如：峨眉天下秀”的美丽风景。

树桩盆景浇水五看法
一看栽植用盆；
二看培养土；
三看植株叶片；
四看生长季节；
五看气候。

一景二盆三托架。
深盆高栽壅土提根法；圆筒沙培提根法；深盆平栽冲水提根法。
一年保活，两年养根，三年养树。
盆景制作的艺术表现手法
主次分明、虚实相生、疏密得当、动静互衬、露中有藏、刚柔相济、枯荣对比、形神兼备、巧拙互用、对比变化、平中之奇、不似之似、对立统一等。

盆景造型的形式
一。直干型（单干高耸式、单干矮壮式、单干健壮式、双干高耸式、双干健壮式、高耸丛林式、健壮丛林式）；
二。斜干型（折斜式、横斜式、直斜式、斜干丛林式）；
三。直斜干型（矮壮双干直斜式、高飘双干直斜式、健壮双干直斜式)；
四。曲干型（直曲式、斜曲式、回旋式、双曲式、曲干丛林式）；
五。卧干型（横卧式、曲卧式）；
六。悬崖型（全悬式、半悬式、半悬飞旋式)；
七。临水型（单干临水式、双干临水式）；
八。倒挂型（单干倒挂式、双干倒挂式）；
九。水旱型（半水旱式、全水旱式）；
十。假山丛林型（峰岭丛林式、丘陵丛林式、峭壁丛林式）；
十－风动型（单干风动式、双干风动式、丛林风动式）；
十二。过桥型（单树过桥式、双树过桥式、丛林过桥式）；
十三。腐干型（洞穴式、斧劈式）；
十四。枯朽型《枯梢式、枯枝式、枯干式（舍利干）》；
十五。怪异型（疙瘩洞孔式、灵芝式）。

意境美是盆景艺术的最高境界
景中有情，情中有景，情景交融；
贵在求其神韵。
松有高矮曲直，贵求其劲；
柏有怪奇枯荣，贵求其拙；
垂树贵求其柔情，悬树贵求其险奇，
花树贵求其艳丽，果树贵求其殷实，
春树贵求其生机，夏树贵求其繁茂，
秋树贵求其红叶，冬树贵求其寒姿。
凡树知其精神实质，才有神韵可求。
中正之势：四平八稳、不倚不斜；
平和之势：细雨和风、波澜不惊；
兴旺之势：生机勃勃、青春煥发；
迎客之势：躬身长揖、彬彬有礼；
清逸之势：翩翩君子、秀色可餐；
突兀之势：如佛顶山之顶佛、云扶石之扶云；
垂泻之势：黄河之水天上来、飞流直下三千尺；
雄劲之势：飞鹏扑虎、虬龙翻江；
雄奇之势：呑天化地、震撼苍穹；
奇险之势：危楼百尺、高峰坠石；
奇逸之势：清高飘逸、超尘脱俗；
奇崛之势：老干虬枝、盘根错节；
顺势：浮萍顺水、随波逐流；
逆势：云山倒卷、倒挂金钩；
奔越之势：扬鞭催马、险渡关山。
中正之势：四平八稳、不倚不斜；
平和之势：细雨和风、波澜不惊；
兴旺之势：生机勃勃、青春煥发；
迎客之势：躬身长揖、彬彬有礼；
清逸之势：翩翩君子、秀色可餐；

树冠的布局要求：
一、树冠垂直、水平与均衡；
二、树冠要回转"挑头"；
三、树冠要前倾。
达到树形正面要露，后面要藏，藏露兼存，含蓄有余的效果。

山水盆景的常见形式
1、近景式：
（1）悬崖式：该造型注意中心把握，虽要夸张，但要合乎情理。
（2）象形式：要在似象非象之间，咀嚼一番。不要过于逼真，也不能过于抽象难懂。
（3）怪石式：要做到形态舒展大方，奇而不失真，不能矫揉造作。
2、远景式：
（1）峰：形态气势挺拔，要达到气势磅礴，巍峨耸立。
（2）峦：层层相连、形式圆转、造型要稳健庄重、气势浩荡。
（3）矶：为突出江边的岩石。
（4）峡：两山夹着的水道。
（5）礁(岛)：江湖海中突出水面的部位。
（6）谷：两山深处，天流水可通路者。
（7）壑：山中的旱沟。
3、水旱式：
（1）全旱式：此题材易用浅盆。
（2）半旱式：描写水际一角。
4、挂壁式：
设计挂壁画面要简练秀丽，层次要丰实。寓意要深刻。
5、附石式：
状如树木自然长在岩石中，古朴而有野趣，可置于山水盆中。
6、供石：
所选之石要具备瘦、透、漏、皱、或做到形、神、色、纹、韵。
树木盆景分类及造型方式以木本植物为主体，经艺术处理（修剪、攀扎）和精心培养，在盆中典型地再现大自然孤或丛林神貌的艺术品。

珍珠罗汉松盆景

Common styles of Bongsai

The most common styles include formal upright, informal upright, slanting, semi-cascade, cascade, raft, literati, and group/forest. Less common forms include windswept, weeping, split-trunk, and driftwood styles.[1]

The formal upright style, or Chokkan, is characterized by a straight, upright, tapering trunk. Branches progress regularly from the thickest and broadest at the bottom to the finest and shortest at the top.
The trunk and branches of the informal upright style, or Moyogi incorporate visible curves, but the apex of the informal upright is always located directly above the trunk's entry into the soil line. Similar to the formal upright style, branches generally progress regularly from largest at the bottom to smallest at the top, although this progression may be broken where the irregular shape of the trunk would make a branch abnormally prominent or obscure.
Slant-style, or Shakan, bonsai possess straight trunks like those of bonsai grown in the formal upright style. However, the slant style trunk emerges from the soil at an angle, and the apex of the bonsai will be located to the left or right of the root base.
Cascade-style, or Kengai, bonsai are modeled after trees which grow over water or on the sides of mountains. The apex, or tip of the tree in the Semi-cascade-style, or Han Kengai, bonsai extend just at or beneath the lip of the bonsai pot; the apex of a (full) cascade style falls below the base of the pot.
Raft-style, or Netsuranari, bonsai mimic a natural phenomenon that occurs when a tree topples onto its side, for example, from erosion or another natural force. Branches along the top side of the trunk continue to grow as a group of new trunks. Sometimes, roots will develop from buried portions of the trunk. Raft-style bonsai can have sinuous, straight-line, or slanting trunks, all giving the illusion that they are a group of separate trees—while actually being the branches of a tree planted on its side.
The literati style, or Bunjin-gi, bonsai is characterized by a generally bare trunk line, with branches reduced to a minimum, and typically placed the top of a long, often contorted trunk. This style derives its name from the Chinese literati who created Chinese brush paintings like those found in the ancient text, The Mustard Seed Garden Manual of Painting. Their minimalist landscapes often depicted trees growing in harsh conditions, with contorted trunks and reduced foliage. In Japan, the literati style is known as bunjin-gi (文人木[21]?). (Bunjin is a translation of the Chinese phrase wenren meaning "scholars practiced in the arts" and gi is a derivative of the Japanese word, ki, for "tree").
The group or forest style, or Yose Ue, comprises a planting of several or many trees, and typically an odd number, in a bonsai pot. The trees are usually the same species, with a variety of heights employed to add visual interest and to reflect the age differences encountered in mature forests.

The broom style, or Hokidachi, is employed for trees with extensive, fine branching, often with species like elms. The trunk is straight and upright. It branches out in all directions about 1/3 of the way up the entire height of the tree. The branches and leaves form a ball-shaped crown which can also be very beautiful during the winter months.
The multi-trunk style, or Ikadabuki, has all the trunks growing out of one spot with one root system, and it actually is one single tree. Its counterpart in nature is the tree clump formed, for example, where a single pine cone has sprouted a number of seedlings in one spot. All the trunks combine to support one crown of leaves, in which the thickest and most developed trunk forms the top.
The Shari style, or Sharimiki, style involves portraying a tree in its struggle to live while a significant part of its trunk is bare of bark. In nature, trees in the Sharimiki style are created by lightning or animals eating the bark[22].
The root-over-rock style, or Sekijoju, is a style in which the roots of the tree are wrapped around a rock. The rock is at the base of the trunk, with the roots exposed to varying degrees as they traverse the rock and then descend into the soil below.

The growing-in-a-rock, or Ishizuke, style means the roots of the tree are growing in soil contained within the cracks and holes of the rock. The rock may serve as a simple container, with the tree escaping the container and forming its own shape. Alternatively, the tree may show a definite relationship to the rock's shape, growing close to the rock and following its contours.

市场购买盆景的注意事项

在农贸市场或花店购买制作树木盆景的苗木或树坯时，应注意以下几点：
1．要因地制宜
购买制作盆景的苗木或树坯，应根据自己的栽培条件，选择适宜的品种。有些初学者制作树木盆景，对某些树木习性(主要是喜阳或是耐阴以及适应性如何，如榕树、九里香等适应性强，在我国南、北方都能生长，而椎木的适应性较差，在北方生长不良)不甚了解，即盲目购买。有的自己栽培树木的地方光照不足，却购买喜阳的黑松、柽柳、五针松、梅花和石榴等树木，以致经常出现“一年青、二年黄、三年见阎王”的现象。有的虽然幸免一死，但却生长不良，梅花、石榴不开花结果或开花很少。栽培之处光照不足，就应购买一些适应性强、耐阴的树木，如黄杨、罗汉松、六月雪、雀梅等。如果家中有一个小院，并有一个小温室，可供选择的树木品种就广泛多了。能制作盆景的树种很多，但最受人们喜爱的莫过于常绿类和花果类。冬季百花凋落，尤其是北方缺红少绿，如果在室内摆放几盆春意盎然的常绿类盆景，就会给居室增添勃勃生机。
2．要容易成活
购买树木盆景或苗木时，除应注意树木品种外，还要看树木能否成活。判断一株苗木或一件树木盆景能否成活，主要是通过观看根、枝、叶的生长情况。植物生长主要靠须根吸收营养和水分，没有须根或须根很少的树木难以成活。有的树木虽有不少须根，但其脱水严重或已经干枯，也难以成活。
同时，还要看枝干、树皮是否饱满色正，如果枝干、树皮收缩或色泽不正(指同该树木正常生长时的色泽不一样)，说明树木掘出时间较长，或因保管不善而使植株失水过多所致，难以成活。有的树木带有叶片，容易判断其能否成活，如叶片翠绿，成活率就高；如叶片发黄，用手一碰就掉，成活率就低。
另外，还有一点应注意的是，根部带宿土的比不带宿土的易于成活。因根部宿土内保留着一些完好的须根，还含有一定水分。这些年，常见有的花店、花农，以次充好骗钱，把从山上掘来须根很少甚至没有须根的树坯，用其他树木的侧根、须根和稻草缠绕后出卖，缺乏经验者常常上当。
3．要注意观察长势
盆景是一种造型艺术，一件树木盆景的优劣，不在其大小，也不完全在树种是否名贵，而主要看其长势。在能否成活的前提下，应尽量购买有培养前途的植株。在农贸市场或花店购买制作树木盆景的苗木或树坯时，应注意以下几点：
1．要因地制宜
购买制作盆景的苗木或树坯，应根据自己的栽培条件，选择适宜的品种。有些初学者制作树木盆景，对某些树木习性(主要是喜阳或是耐阴以及适应性如何，如榕树、九里香等适应性强，在我国南、北方都能生长，而椎木的适应性较差，在北方生长不良)不甚了解，即盲目购买。有的自己栽培树木的地方光照不足，却购买喜阳的黑松、柽柳、五针松、梅花和石榴等树木，以致经常出现“一年青、二年黄、三年见阎王”的现象。有的虽然幸免一死，但却生长不良，梅花、石榴不开花结果或开花很少。栽培之处光照不足，就应购买一些适应性强、耐阴的树木，如黄杨、罗汉松、六月雪、雀梅等。如果家中有一个小院，并有一个小温室，可供选择的树木品种就广泛多了。能制作盆景的树种很多，但最受人们喜爱的莫过于常绿类和花果类。冬季百花凋落，尤其是北方缺红少绿，如果在室内摆放几盆春意盎然的常绿类盆景，就会给居室增添勃勃生机。
2．要容易成活
购买树木盆景或苗木时，除应注意树木品种外，还要看树木能否成活。判断一株苗木或一件树木盆景能否成活，主要是通过观看根、枝、叶的生长情况。植物生长主要靠须根吸收营养和水分，没有须根或须根很少的树木难以成活。有的树木虽有不少须根，但其脱水严重或已经干枯，也难以成活。
同时，还要看枝干、树皮是否饱满色正，如果枝干、树皮收缩或色泽不正(指同该树木正常生长时的色泽不一样)，说明树木掘出时间较长，或因保管不善而使植株失水过多所致，难以成活。有的树木带有叶片，容易判断其能否成活，如叶片翠绿，成活率就高；如叶片发黄，用手一碰就掉，成活率就低。
另外，还有一点应注意的是，根部带宿土的比不带宿土的易于成活。因根部宿土内保留着一些完好的须根，还含有一定水分。这些年，常见有的花店、花农，以次充好骗钱，把从山上掘来须根很少甚至没有须根的树坯，用其他树木的侧根、须根和稻草缠绕后出卖，缺乏经验者常常上当。
3．要注意观察长势
盆景是一种造型艺术，一件树木盆景的优劣，不在其大小，也不完全在树种是否名贵，而主要看其长势。在能否成活的前提下，应尽量购买有培养前途的植株。
一棵树桩或苗木有无培养前途，主要从根、干、主枝三方面来观察：
一般根系发达，侧根较粗、须根较多，适宜将来培育成“悬根露爪”之态。
树干是决定树木盆景款式的主要依据，在树木盆景样式中，大多数是根据树干的不同姿态而命名的。尤其在上盆以后，树干长高较易，长粗较难，树干一般比较粗硬，要改变原来的形态相当困难。所以，在挑选树桩、苗木时，以树干粗短并有一定曲折者为好。但有的直干树桩亦有特色，若将枝干处理得当，也很美观。
除树根、树干之外，还需观察主枝和树干的比例，如主枝粗细和树干相差不多，用这样的树木素材制作出的盆景是不美的。同时要看主枝分布情况，主枝呈对生状态不美，若为互生状就便于造型了。
小要谨防虫害
购买树桩或苗木时，应注意别把有虫害的树木买回家。要检查树、枝和叶片上有无蚜虫、红蜘蛛等害虫，这些害虫常生在叶片背面或嫩枝叶片上。有的树木枝干上寄生着棕色、白色、褐色的介壳虫，这些介壳虫身上多覆有一层蜡壳，喷药也很难杀死。如果不注意，一旦把有虫害的树木买回家，不但危害买来的树木，还可能传染到其它花木上。
一棵树桩或苗木有无培养前途，主要从根、干、主枝三方面来观察：
一般根系发达，侧根较粗、须根较多，适宜将来培育成“悬根露爪”之态。
树干是决定树木盆景款式的主要依据，在树木盆景样式中，大多数是根据树干的不同姿态而命名的。尤其在上盆以后，树干长高较易，长粗较难，树干一般比较粗硬，要改变原来的形态相当困难。所以，在挑选树桩、苗木时，以树干粗短并有一定曲折者为好。但有的直干树桩亦有特色，若将枝干处理得当，也很美观。
除树根、树干之外，还需观察主枝和树干的比例，如主枝粗细和树干相差不多，用这样的树木素材制作出的盆景是不美的。同时要看主枝分布情况，主枝呈对生状态不美，若为互生状就便于造型了。
小要谨防虫害
购买树桩或苗木时，应注意别把有虫害的树木买回家。要检查树、枝和叶片上有无蚜虫、红蜘蛛等害虫，这些害虫常生在叶片背面或嫩枝叶片上。有的树木枝干上寄生着棕色、白色、褐色的介壳虫，这些介壳虫身上多覆有一层蜡壳，喷药也很难杀死。如果不注意，一旦把有虫害的树木买回家，不但危害买来的树木，还可能传染到其它花木上。

盆景

大树移植树干保湿三法

任何形式的移植都会损伤树木的根系，为保证大树体内收支平衡，人们常采取提前断根、截干缩枝、包封截面等技术措施。如果在移栽过程中对树干进行保湿处理，减少其水分蒸发，将更有利于提高树木移栽的成活率。根据实践经验，树干保湿大致有以下三种方法，在实际操作中要视具体情况再作适当选择：

　　一、 裹草绑膜　先用草帘或直接用稻草将树干包好，然后用细草绳将其固定在树干上。接着用水管或喷雾器将稻草喷湿，也可先将草帘或稻草浸湿后再包裹。继之用塑料薄膜包于草帘或稻草外，最后将薄膜捆扎在树干上。树干下部靠近土球处让薄膜铺展开来，在将基部覆土浇透水后，连同干兜一并覆盖地膜。地膜周边用土压好，这样可利用土壤温度的调节作用，保证被包裹树干空间内有足够的温度和湿度，省去补充浇水之劳作。

　　二、缠绳绑膜　先将树干用粗草绳捆紧，并将草绳浇透水，外绑塑料薄膜保湿。基部地面覆膜压土方法同方法一，保湿调温效果明显，同样有利于成活。

　　三、捆草绑膜缠布　在一些景观非常优美的环境里，因裹草绑膜会影响景观的效果，可在裹草绑膜完成后，再在主干和大树的外面缠绕一层粗白麻布条。这样既可与环境相协调，防止夏季薄膜内温度太高，也有利于树干的保湿成活。

　　四、 以上三种大树保湿方法的原理相同，只是在材料选择上有所差别，将树干用塑料薄膜封闭，强制性保温保湿，比传统的人工喷水养护更稳定、更均匀，能将不良天气对大树的影响和伤害降到最低限度。因此在三九天和三伏天，切不可拆卸薄膜。必须经过1至2年的生长周期，树木生长稳定后，方可卸下薄膜。上述的树干保湿操作也可在大树种植前进行，这样更为方便。